Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their children do not want to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
